This is naughty and nifty little recipe from Nigel Slater: very quick and easy to make and featuring two key ingredients I knew very little about until this became a regular. You can do all the preparing while the linguine cooks in its pan. (Do not let it overcook: if it goes slithering out of the holes in the colander, you know you should have taken it off the heat earlier.) The only difference I would make is: he says banana shallot, I say red onion, which is my go-to allium for just about everything. Except garlic. When a recipe says garlic, I go for garlic plus a lot more.
But this doesn’t have garlic. Done carefully, the fennel and the onion together sizzle away into something just hard enough to put up a token resistance in your mouth while giving you a hit of caramelised liquorice; meanwhile the feta hits you with a salty blast that stops the whole thing just being too darn sweet.